The Parts and Function of a Sewing Machine

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• Spool holder
• The spool holder has multiple functions. It holds the spool of thread, but also controls the direction of the thread as it goes through the machine. If your machine has more than one thread holder, it probably means you can use a double-eyed needle to sew decorative stitches (the instructions for this would be in your manual). Depending on the machine, the spool holder can be horizontal or vertical. On this machine, there are two spool holders and they are both vertical.
• Bobbin
• A bobbin is a small spindle that is wound with thread. It supplies the bottom thread of the stitches. The bobbin fits into the bobbin case. You wind the bobbin with thread using the bobbin winder.
• Bobbin case
• The case the bobbin sits in. This can be found under the needle plate and usually has a piece of plastic that flips up to cover the bobbin case when you're not sewing.
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• Stitch length adjustment
• The stitch length setting sets the length of every individual stitch. The type of fabric and thread you use will determine what stitch length you should use; you should sew on a test scrap of fabric to determine what the correct stitch length for that fabric is.
• Stitch tension adjustment (tension discs and tension regulator)
• Sewing involves pulling thread through the two sides of the fabric, and to do this without having thread bunch up or tangle the correct amount of tension in the thread is necessary. The same amount of thread needs to be pulled from the spool and the bobbin at the same time, and to ensure this you need to use the tension adjustment.The tension discs squeeze the thread as it passes between them and the tension regulator controls the amount of pressure on the discs. Luckily for the modern sewer, all you need to understand is the tension dial; if you turn the dial to a higher number, the tension is increased, and if you turn the tension to a lower number, the tension is decreased. When the tension is correct, the stitched line is straight, smooth and even on both sides of the fabric. There are no loops or knots in the line, and the knot between the top and bottom threads is hidden between fabric layers. For more information about thread tension, this page gives a more detailed explanation.
• Stitch pattern adjustment
• Depending on the machine, there are different stitches to choose from besides just a straight line of stitches. There is the zigzag stitch, which is helpful for knit fabrics because it is more elastic; the buttonhole stitch, which is used to create buttonholes; and several different kinds of decorative stitches. Below is a sample of the stitches available with the machine I use. Your user manual should have information about the different kinds of stitches that your machine has.
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• Take up lever
• The take up lever is used in threading the sewing machine and to keep the thread tension at the proper level. If the take up lever is threaded improperly, the thread will knot up and jam in the machine.
• Presser foot
• The presser foot puts pressure on the fabric to keep it going smoothly along and prevent any wrinkles that could mess up the stitch. There are different kinds of presser feet, such as the one-sided presser foot used for doing zippers. Presser feet snap on and off using the presser foot lever on the back of the presser foot.
• Presser foot lifter
• The presser foot is used to hold the fabric down to the needle plate so it can be sewn smoothly. When you sew, the presser foot should be down; when you're done sewing, lift it up with the presser foot lifter.
• Needle plate and feed dogs
• The needle plate is the metal plate that is under the needle and on top of the bobbin case. Your sewing machine may have the seam guides that the sewing machine pictured has, which are helpful when making patterns that call for specific seam measurements. The needle plate covers the feed dogs, which are the rough pieces of metal that are used to push the fabric along as you sew. There are two feed dogs.
• Needle and needle bar
• The needle fits into the needle bar, which holds it in place with a small screw.
• Bobbin winder
• Bobbin winders are used to wind thread onto the empty bobbin. Bobbin winders can be found at the top, front or end of the machine (on this machine, it's found at the top, right below the spool holder).
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• Power switch
• It has to be said: sewing machines run on electricity (well, most do). There should be a cord attached to the foot pedal that plugs into the wall and the machine. The power switch is usually on the right side of the machine.
• Hand wheel
• The hand wheel is used for when you want to manually move the needle up and down. This is used when sewing an extremely thick piece of fabric, pulling the thread of the bobbin up through the needle plate or just when you need to sew very carefully. The hand wheel can be pulled out when you want to disengage the needle (run the spool of thread without the needle going up and down).
• Back-sew button
• This button on the front of the machine is used to sew backwards, which you will do at the end of every seam to tie it off. Sewing backwards is the same in every aspect of sewing the usual way except for the direction.
• Foot pedal
• The foot pedal operates in the exact same way a car pedal does; the more pressure you apply to the pedal, the faster you sew. It's best for beginning sewers to sew very slowly until they get used to the speed and rate of the foot pedal.
• User Manual
• This photo and accompanying descriptions are for the sewing machine I personally use. Most sewing machine have the same basic design/construction, but there may be slight differences between. Your instruction manual is probably the most important tool you need for sewing with a machine.

Copyright © 2009 Caitlin Head