i started surfing when i was about seventeen. i moved to daytona beach florida,
and i lived within two blocks of the beach. this, and my love of the ocean,
made surfing my favorite past time over the next five years. the truth is that
i spent the majority of my senior year of high school in the water as opposed
to in the classroom. now that i live in gainesville, i don't get out into
the water as much, but i still love the ocean, and i try to get out in the
water whenever possible. when i decide where i want to go after college,
i'm sure i'll choose a location that is close to a beach with good waves.
i've been to california three times on surfing trips. on my last trip, i spent a
month and a half there. some friends and i flew into san diego and drove up the coast to san
fransisco. we stopped at dozens of spots on the way up to surf. while the climate is very
moderate most of the time, the water rarely gets above the mid sixties. you need a wet suit
to surf at many if not most spots in california. the farther north you go, the colder the
water gets. the picture to the left is of me surfing by the ocean side pier. this was one
of the smaller days on the trip, but it was still a good time. the board i am riding in the picture
is a six-ten reflex shaped by a local shaper in daytona beach, florida.
puerto rico has warm water and the best surf i've seen. i spent about a month
and a half there, and caught the best surf of my life. we went there in the middle of december
and the water temperature was in the mid to high seventies. the picture to the left is of me
surfing at a spot called indicators. although this day wasn't that big, the rights lasted
forever, and it was alot of fun. the only board i took to puerto rico was a six-three orion
shaped by a local shaper in ormond beach, florida.